Elisalex dress muslin #2

So, here’s my second Elisalex dress muslin. Tell ya what, I love the shape of this dress. The fitted bodice, nice scoop back and poofy tulip skirt make a very Lauren-esque combination.

My first muslin (pics here) was a UK10/US6 and it was WAAAY off what I wanted. Initially I made the 10 with a 1″ FBA. After asking for advice on the PR message board, I followed a suggestion to size down to the 8 and grade the princess seams on the bodice front to a 10, and then do a FBA. This seems to have worked. You can tell the dress is super fitted and those drag lines above my bust are quite telling, but I have made a few adjustments since posting these pics. Anyway, here we are…

Back view:Image

Front view:Image

Side views:ImageImage

In my humble opinion, the fit is pretty good *apart* from a few minor things. This is what I plan to do before chopping up my fashion fabric (indigo blue cotton sateen – not my “dream” fabric but it is nice quality, a nice colour and was only $8/metre!)

  • Take 1cm out of the skirt front piece at the fold (the gathering you can see most likely occurred because I tried to take short cut by grading the sz 10 pattern skirt pieces I had already traced to an 8 at the side seams. Rookie mistake!)
  • Lop off 21cm at the sleeves to sit just below the elbow (have since done and checked and it has reduced the drag lines on my high bust significantly)
  • Lop off 20cm off the hem of the skirt… MUCH MORE FLATTERING. Sits just on the knee now. FYI: This skirt is NOT easy to walk in. Lucky I work in an office!
  • Add pockets. I think the poofy tulip skirt is just asking for pockets. Should I make a muslin to test out the pockets? Probably. Am I just going to follow this tutorial? Yep.
  • Underline the skirt in organza. I am a teensy bit paranoid my sateen isn’t structured enough for the awesomeness of the tulip skirt. I think a bit of organza will help keep its shape AND the inside of the dress will look very profesh (not something I generally strive for).
  • Maybe a hand-picked zipper??? The zipper I used for the muslin was the 32″ as suggested by the pattern, but I could only get an open-end zip at that length. To match my fabric I’ve purchased a dark blue dress zip but it’s only 24″. It shouldn’t make a difference in terms of me getting in and out of the dress.
  • MOST IMPORTANT: the pulling on the back bodice of the dress is an indicator of just how fitted this bodice is. I don’t want to add much ease because I really like the fitted/skin-tight bodice, but those drag lines on the back don’t look great. I think I will apply the same adjustment to the back bodice pieces that I did to the front, that is, grade out to the size 10 in the princess seams. Again, I should probably make another muslin but I plan to baste the back pieces together and get LL to pin me up before I attach the skirt. Fool-proof plan, right?? ha.

So that’s my plan of attack for Elisalex! Can’t wait to get started on this beauty!

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